Namibia Trip Report - Cape Town to Kunene - January/February 2009

 

In the latter part of 2008, Japie Claassen sent out an email saying that he had some spare spaces on his trip heading to Namibia in January 2009. A quick call to Debbie, and plans were underway This was a major lifer yielding trip for us, and we were not to be disappointed. I mentioned the trip to my father, and he very quickly asked if there was another spot for him on the trip, which it turned out there was.

 

The three of us set out from Johannesburg early on the morning of the 23rd. The long drive to Cape Town usually produces interesting birds en route, and was not to disappoint this time either. We saw a fair variety of species, some of the more interesting being Greater Flamingo, Amur Falcon, Lesser Kestrel, Black Stork, South African Shelduck, Blue Crane, Secretarybird, Jackal Buzzard, Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk, Rock Kestrel, White necked Raven and Great White Pelican. We arrived at Rick Shuttleworths house around 18h00 where all of the travellers were meeting up and Rick's wife had prepared a wonderful supper for us all. We said our goodbyes ready to meet back there early the next morning.

 

On the Saturday we set out on the lengthy drive to Noordoewer (North Bank), just across the Orange River, in Namibia. En route we planned to stop near Clanwilliam and look for Protea Seedeaters, which were to be our first lifer of the trip. Steppe Buzzard and Cape Spurfowl were amongst the first birds to bid us farewell from Cape Town. The common roadside birds were encountered along the way, more interesting sightings being Black Harrier near Piketberg, Booted Eagle near Citrusdal. We stopped to look for the Protea Seedeaters and picked up some species like Verreaux's Eagle, Red-winged Starling (probably our last opportunity to see them on the trip as we moved Northwards out of their range), Fairy Flycatcher and Mountain Wheatear. We carried on our way, and bird species started to change, with the likes of Namaqua Dove, Karoo Chat and Greater Kestrel becoming more and more common. An impressive Martial Eagle was seen as we headed North of Rietpoort, about to cross out of Western into Northern Cape. Into Northern Cape and Grey-backed Sparrowlark was seen, a lifer for some of the  group. A surprise was a pair of Blue Cranes, very far North of their normal range, near Kamieskroon. Our first White-throated Canary was seen a little North of Steinkopf, and Rufous-eared Warbler, Sickle-winged Chat, our first Dusky Sunbird, plus our next lifer, Stark's Lark, as we neared the Vioolsdrif border. The inevitable House Sparrow was ticked at the border post together with African Red-eyed Bulbul, Rock Martin and Cape Sparrow. Other species picked up at our first stop-over included White-backed Mousebird, Pin-tailed Whydah, Black-throated Canary, Fiscal Flycatcher and a pair of Orange River White-eyes in the failing light.

 

The next morning we were up early, all meeting for breakfast and coffee at the campsite, with the calls of the highly adaptable Hadeda Ibis greeting us, showing how their range is clearly expanding. Namaqua Warblers were calling in the reedbeds, frustrating the photographers in the group as we tried to get acceptable photos of them. The Orange River White-eyes were far more co-operative, sitting nicely out in the open in the early morning sunshine. We added other trip species such as Willow Warbler, African Reed Warbler, Cape Wagtail, Karoo Thrush, Grey Heron, African Darter, Cardinal Woodpecker and Pied Kingfisher. We set off on our way to Aus, travelling along the Orange River, through the Ai-Ais section of the Transfrontier Park, amongst some stunning scenery. We added our first Lanner Falcon, then the species tally started mounting: Brown-throated Martin, Pale-winged Starling, Goliath Heron, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Giant Kingfisher, Lark-like Bunting, Jackal Buzzard, Karoo Prinia, Tractrac Chat (we were to see the widely varying plumage forms of these and Karoo Chats during our trip), "real" wild Ostriches, the subcorantus race of the Common Fiscal, sometimes known as the Latakoo Fiscal, showing a white eye stripe, Spike-heeled Lark, Chat Flycatcher, Cape Crow, Black-chested Snake Eagle, Namaqua Sandgrouse, Alpine Swift, Karoo Long-billed Lark, Damara Canary (currently "considered" a race of Black-headed Canary in spite of its very different appearance), Karoo Korhaan and Grey-backed Cisticola. We were now at Klein Aus Vista where we would spend the night, we got hold of the local guide and went in search of the local form of the Barlow's Lark. Tramping through thorny scrub, we found a single bird, Lark-like Buntings flying around causing pulses to race thinking they were the Lark. We found a single bird, but not everyone got a view of it as it scurried amongst the scrub, mostly out of site. On our way back to the camp, Ralie radioed through to say they were looking at a Cape Eagle-Owl! Lifer for the non Cape-Townians of us! We sped up a little and soon were looking at this beautiful Owl. In the fast failing light I managed a shot of it, acceptable at 1/15th of a second shutter speed!

 

The following morning a brave few got up early and headed back out to the Lark site, to try and get better views. Philip and I got average shots in the same area we had seen it the previous evening. We headed back, and soon saw another sitting fairly close to the road, giving slightly better views. We were also to add Pink-billed Lark and saw some more Stark's Larks, which were proving to be very common. Cape Bunting was added at the drinking trough, seen alongside what was most likely the same Damara Canary as seen the previous day. Acacia Pied Barbet and Bokmakierie were added before we set on our way Northwards, to Solitaire. A few Ludwig's Bustards were seen on the way, and soon  pair of Pygmy Falcons, very shortly after I was explaining to Jean how they were tiny, smaller than the white insulators on the telephone poles, there he sat! This of course meant the Sociable Weavers couldn't be far, too true, we soon saw a large colony. We added White-browed Sparrow-Weaver, Common Scimitarbill, Fork-tailed Drongo, another lifer in the form of Ruppell's Korhaan, thereafter adding the likes of Great Sparrow, Red-backed Shrike, Lesser Grey Shrike, a Kori Bustard with two youngsters, mini replicas of the adult, in tow, Black-chested Prinia, the Bradfield's form of Sabota Lark, Desert Cisticola (a lifer for some), then at a water hole, South African Shelduck, Red-billed Teal, Yellow-billed Duck, Cape Shoveler, Little Egret, Pied Avocet, Egyptian Goose, Red-knobbed Coot, Cape Teal, Black-winged Stilt and Three-banded Plover. We drove on adding the likes of Yellow Canary, Common Swift, a Steppe Eagle causing much debate as to it's ID, South African Cliff Swallow, White-rumped Swift, Greater Striped Swallow, Northern Black Korhaan, Red-billed Francolin and Gabar Goshawk. Our first Monteiro's Hornbill was worth a stop, where we also saw our first Rosy-faced Lovebird. Pririt Batis was found a little further along the road, plus Short-toed Rock-Thrush. We stopped at the "oasis" of Solitaire in the middle of no-where, and had a couple of frosties to cool down.

 

The following morning we saw a flock of Lovebirds coming in to drink. Scaly-feathered Finches (Piet's lifer "Baardmannetjie") were also seen. We were off on a detour to Spreetshoogte Pass to look for the uncommon Herero Chat, which we duly found. We had the long drive now through the Namib Desert, into Walvis Bay and North to Swakopmund where we would spend two nights. We stopped to look for Gray's Lark, although we found an empty nest, we had no success this time, but did find a very pale form of Karoo Chat. The short drive up the coast from Walvis to Swakop travels close to the sea shore, where we saw Common Tern, Swift Tern and Sandwich Tern, Ruddy Turnstone, Common Whimbrel, as well as a Grey Plover which had everyone excited and thinking it may be American Golden Plover, which had been seen at the river mouth recently. When the bird took to fight, it's black "armpits" revealed its true identity. On arrival at Swakopmund, we took a short trip down to the river mouth, succesfully finding the recently reported out of range Glossy Ibis, and the mega, a vagrant American Golden Plover, a lifer for most of us. In amongst a large group of Common and Swift Terns on the mudflats, we also saw another lifer, the diminutive, endangered Damara Tern, another lifer in the bag.

 

The following morning, the consensus had been that we go to Rooibank for the Dune Lark. We drove to Rooibank, and within 15 minutes we had found it, a lifer again for most of us. A slight argument with a local later, we were on our way to Walvis Bay lagoon. One of the first waders we saw was a Bar-tailed Godwit, lifer! Another lifer some was a single Terek Sandpiper with his upturned bill. The next bit of excitement came in the form of a Jaeger, being chased off by Gulls and Terns, it was later to be identified from a few poor photos as a Pomarine Jaeger. We headed around the lagoon to the salt works, adding Black-necked Grebe and Chestnut-banded Plover. We then headed North of Swakopmund to Mile 4 Salt Works, taking in some of the surrounding roads, looking for and succesfully finding a lifer in the form of the highly camouflaged Gray's Lark. They are so confident with their camo, that we were allowed to get within metres before they scuttled further away again. We unsuccesfully looked for the Redshank, but found plenty of birds including Lesser Flamingoes and huge numbers of Cape Cormorants at the guano platforms.

 

On the road again..... We headed further Northwards the next day, destination Omaruru, with a detour via Spitskoppe. The first lifer of the day was Carp's Tit followed by the White-tailed Shrike, quite a charismatic little bird. An Augur Buzzard was seen by some, out of sight for others, we were to see this again at Kunene. Violet-backed Starling was also added, and ringed Pale-winged Starlings were seen. At Omaruru, some quick birding around the camp produced a pair of Bearded Woodpeckers and a Eurasian Golden Oriole. We then headed off to find the uncommon Hartlaub's Spurfowl, which we did, at exactly the same spot as Japie had seem them a year ago. This is one of the few Francolins or Spurfowls where the female and male are markedly different. They were spotted far off under a bush on the rocks, and both male and female gave good scoped views. African Scops Owl was seen and photographed by Philip (his lifer), and heard by others.

 

Off we set to Kamanjab, a few more specials in store en-route. Before setting on our way, we went birding in the South of Omaruru. This produced David's long awaited lifer, Bradfield's Swift, although far better views would be had later that day, Great-spotted Cuckoo, the first lifer, Violet Wood-Hoopoe, soon afterwards Damara Hornbill, Burnt-necked Eremomela was a lifer for Jean, Lesser masked Weaver, Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver, Barred Wren-Warbler and another Pririt Batis were seen before heading off. Our next lifer was the Benguela Long-billed Lark, quite a few seen in a fairly small area. We soon added my second ever sighting of Burchell's Courser, another Ludwig's Bustard and a Temminck's Courser. The second Augur Buzzard of the trip was also seen, plus Shikra, Spotted Eagle-Owl and the first of many Madagascar Bee-eaters. We stayed in pre-erected tents that night and awoke with Barn Owl and Pearl-spotted Owlet calling around us. Jacobin Cuckoo, Black-faced Waxbill and Brubru were added, then just before departure, a nice lifer, a party of Bare-cheeked Babblers, seen the previous evening by some of the group.

 

Kunene, here we come - Dusky Lark, my second ever, seen along the road, a group of Abdim's Storks, then a nice group of Chestnut Weavers, the first lifer of the day, these and Red-billed Queleas being terrorised by a Lanner Falcon. Yellow-billed Oxpeckers were seen, not being very photogenic, as they were on a group of Donkeys! Meve's Starling, Red-crested Korhaan, Green-backed Heron and Wire-tailed Swallow were added. A walk around produced White-browed Coucal, Swamp Boubou, African Paradise-Flycatcher, the Cunensis race of Red-necked Spurfowl, Yellow-bellied Greenbul, African Mourning Dove, Groundscraper Thrush, Levaillant's Cuckoo, Spectacled Weaver and Red-headed Weaver. Next morning, the mega special, a lifer even for Japie, we went hunting for Grey Kestrel, finding a pair quite easily. We searched in the morning to give us a second crack at it in the afternoon, if required, which it fortunately wasn't. Grey-headed Kingfisher was also added. Returning to the camp, we found another lifer, Rufous-tailed Palm-Thrush, more Babblers, African Golden Oriole and African Cuckoo. Then off for the next special, a walk up the river bed for the localised Cinderella Waxbill, we found a group of 8! On the walk we saw another Augur Buzzard, flying low over our heads, as well as Eurasian Hobby. I walked along the river in the afternoon, finding a snoozing Square-tailed Nightjar, another Bradfield's Swift, Grey-backed Camaroptera and the local buysi or capricorni race of Bennett's Woodpecker, with it's totally unmarked chest. Golden Weaver was also added at the camp, before going on a rain shortened booze cruise up the river.

 

The next morning, destination Sachsenheim to the East of Etosha, we set off with the first stop scheduled at Ruacana falls. On arriving there, we discovered the river had been totally re-routed via the power station, the falls were dry. We did however see another Grey Kestrel, which appeared to be raiding Buffalo Weaver nests. Common House Martins were added as well, a few more Bare-cheeked Babblers seen as well. The area we drove through had seen heavy rains, flooding large areas. Two Pygmy Geese were seen in one of the temporary pans. At Sachsenheim, we added Woolly necked Stork and heard Black Cuckoo calling near the newly finished chalets. Debbie and I went for a walk, being very lucky to find a group of Black-faced Babblers. The following morning we headed to Etosha, seeing another Carp's Tit and some White-crested Helmet-Shrikes soon after entering the park. Marabou Stork and another Dusky Lark were seen, while on the loop looking for the Black-faced Babblers, which were to remain unseen until the next morning, back at Sachsenheim. Lesser Moorhen was seen by our vehicle and we radioed Japie to come back, as David still needed this as a lifer. As we drove further, a group of Red-footed Falcons was seen flying above the road, as well as our first Bateleur. Other additions to the list included Saddle-billed Stork, Wood Sandpiper, my second ever Tinkling Cisticola, some Cape Penduline Tits, Icterine Warbler and Comb Duck.

 

We now had a long drive to the Waterberg, and the heavy rain that the country had seen was worrying, as access roads could be flooded. After succesfully relocating the Babblers, we set on our way and added Wahlberg's Eagle, Lesser-Spotted and African Hawk-Eagle. The roads were wet, but not impassable, we arrived at Waterberg Mountain Camp after worrying that we'd missed the turning, no cellphone signal meant kept persevering. Shortly after arriving, the heavens opened and we had no option but to sit it out, with the comfort of a couple of beers. I decided to brave the drizzle and set off up the "koppie", to the disbelief of some. It was slippery and hard going, but getting to the top, I heard my lifer target, the Rockrunner, calling. I looked down on the camp and others called up asking if I'd seen it. "Of course" I yelled, followed by "I'm only joking, not just yet!". They didn't hear that, they were grabbing raincoats and binoculars, on their way up! Very fortunately, the bird that was calling was very obliging and sat in clear view on a rock. David and Piet who had braved the climb both saw it. (Was I glad when I found out they hadn't heard my second call down!). Freckled Nightjar yelped through the night, but none were seen. A further Rockrunner was heard and found the next morning on our way out, all of the group getting decent views. We had one more bird (Namibia special that is) that had eluded us thus far, being Ruppell's Parrot - the best we got was two caged individuals at Omaruru. We stopped at Waterberg National Park, where they are supposed to be common. We were out of luck, and it remained the single dip of our trip.

 

We were now more or less homeward bound, stopping at Mariental and Springbok on the way home. The only addition of note was Hottentot Teal just outside of Mariental, some good sightings of a large group of Namaqua Sandgrouse seen on the way down South. We arrived back at Rick's just before 15h00 on the Saturday, having thoroughly enjoyed the trip.

 

These sightings and many many more have all been recorded on http://www.natworld.org

 

If any errors are found or incorrect links in my report, please email me.